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Despite the vast selection of crampons available you can quickly figure out the type you need based on the activity and terrain you plan to take on, and the type of footwear
you'll be wearing.
CONSTRUCTION
There are three types of crampons on the market: hinged, semi-rigid and rigid.
Hinged
Hinged crampons provide flex at the instep and bend with the natural motion of walking and thus are the preferred style for almost any type of mountaineering except steep technical ice climbing.
One of the best things about hinged crampons is that they fit on either plastic boots or leather mountaineering boots with a full shank. With a stiff-enough boot, hinged crampons will even work on vertical ice.
Higed crampons are more comfortable than riged ones.
Semi-rigid
Semi-rigid crampons are designed for people who do both mountaineering and vertical ice climbing.
Some have a plate under the forefoot and side rails that run the entire length. Others are hinged with an adjustment that locks the hinge in place.
Rigid
Rigid crampons are the most technical. They do not bend at the instep so when climbing up steep technical ice, they allow the climber to keep their heel lower when front-pointing, thus less tiring as a result.
Rigid crampons also need to be used with stiff boots, as wearing them with flexible boots will eventually cause them to bend and weaken.
Rigid crampons tend to be heavier and will not perform as well in mixed terrain.
FRAME ORIENTATION
Crampons are constructed with either a horizontal frame or a vertical frame. The orientation of the crampon frames affects how well they perform in different snow and ice conditions.
Horizontal
Horizontally oriented frames are better in snow and soft ice. This construction helps prevent snow from balling up underfoot.
The front points are also typically horizontal for good traction for walking on snow to front-pointing. Hinged crampons are made with a horizontal orientation.
Vertical
Vertically oriented frames are better in hard ice, because they are stiff. Their vertical rails bite into the hardest ice efficiently, without vibration, and the rigid platform reduces foot fatigue.
This construction can cause dangerous snow balling. Vertically oriented frames are more expensive.
POINTS
You should remember that the geometry of the points is crucial and it determines how well the crampons work. There are many variables that you can look into to know the performance of crampons, including the length of the points and the relationship of the front points to the secondary points.
Number of Points
Most crampons have 12 points, with 10 under the foot and 2 forward-facing front points.
The number of points on the crampon may or may not be a determining factor. If you use the entire bottom surface of the crampon, it will be, because more points will provide more anchoring power.
On the other hand, you must make sure that the points on the models you are comparing are more or less the same length. Ten very long points could very well provide for better penetration than 14 short points.
Front Points
Front points are two front-slanting points on crampon, which allow traction to be concentrated at the toe of the climber's boots.
If you use only the front points, the rigidity of the points, their penetrating power and the angle between the horizontal and vertical points are much more important considerations than the number of points.
Monopoints
Monopoints are useful for mixed climbing and on good, clean, hard ice. Their vertical orientation allows them to fit into cracks in rock or ice or the holes left by ice screws or tools where standard dual points will not fit.
Monopoints tend to feel a little less stable until you get used to them, but allow more freedom of body position.
CHOOSING CRAMPONS
Crampons can be divided into four categories according to the type of terrain they are designed for.
Ice Waterfalls
Designed for front pointing up steep waterfall ice, these crampons have aggressive front points and forward swept secondary points.
They often have rigid frames that provide a solid platform so you don't fatigue your calves and ankles while hanging out on the front points. However, if the soles of your boots are extremely rigid, you can opt for semi-rigid crampons.
The crampon frame is vertically oriented for rigidity and support to the boot sole.
Mountaineering
Semi-rigid, versatile crampons for use on a wide variety of snow and ice routes.
This type of crampon is ideal for 90% of alpine and glacier applications.
Mountaineering crampons have horizontally oriented front points to hold better on snow and the soft, sun-eroded surface ice of glaciers.
They have variable types of straps or systems to attach them to a wide variety of boots.
The design of mountaineering crampons varies, some are more suited to general mountaineering, including non-technical glaciated, icy and snowy terrain. Some are better for steeper, more sustained climbing.
Walking
Walking crampons are generally 10 point, and are designed for trekking and hiking on low-angle snowfields and glaciers - which is not to say they are no good on steep ground.
Typical features of walking crampon include strapping and attachment systems that fit a variety of boots, light weight, shorter points, and a flat, non-rigid frame.
Light and compact to save energy over long distances, but light alloys won't stand up to extended front pointing or mixed terrain.
Technical Alpine Crampons
Similar to mountaineering crampons, but they have some slight differences to improve technical performance on more difficult ice or mixed climbing.
Typical characteristics of technical alpine crampons include slightly heavier weight, second points that are more raked forward to help with ice limbing, and longer points.
They usually have a front bail attachment system since it is assumed that they will be used with technical boots.
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