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Crampons were probably the first tool used to cope with the difficulties of mountain terrain and simultaneously they were also the last tool to be universally accepted and used.
The first evidence of crampons can find on the Arch of Constantine (beginning of IV century dc.) in Rome. According to Tertulliano they were invented by spies in order to move with safety on difficult terrain.
Simler cites crampons' use in Vallesiae et Alpium descriptio in 1574. They were “grappettes”, normally with four spikes, fixed under shoes to avoid slipping.
So the story continues with various changes until the second half of the XIX century.
Then more complete designs began to appear, covering the whole of the shoe, like the crampon Pastori di Brescia in 1876.
In 1908 Englishman Oscar Eckenstein designs the first 10-point crampon, dramatically reducing the need for step cutting
In 1910 Eckenstein’s design is made commercially available by Italian blacksmith Henry Grivel.
In 1913 Lieutenant Tremeau develops the first adjustable-length crampon.
The way forward had been set out, new tools and technology gave high quality results; though there was still something missing.
It was Laurent, Henry’s first son and a mountain guide, who added the two front points that were necessary to allow whatever movement was necessary on the steepest and hardest gradients. The 12 points crampon was born in 1929.
This was the beginning of the battle between front-on or side-on techniques.
The “ultimate” opinion in the international debate came with the ascent of the north face of the Eiger on 21-24 July 1938, thanks to (as well) Heckmair’s and Vorg’s 12 spikes, according to the one of the second team, Harrer who with Kaspareck had problems with their old crampons.
In the meantime Grivel presented the famous “superlight” crampons. Made in steel, Laurent’s younger brother, used the alloy Nichel-Chrome-Molibdeno, achieveding strength whilst allowing a reduction in thickness and therefore in weight. They forged crampons weighing 360 grams a pair, up until then impossible.
In 1967 Americans Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost developed rigid-frame crampons to provide maximum energy transfer from boot to ice. These crampons were very efficient though fragile and dangerous; plastic boots would be the solution.
In 1972 Mike Lowe screwed vertical teeth like blades onto his ski boots. These were the Foot Fangs, a real revolution in the concept of crampons: a vertical structure with an automatic binding.
A few years before, Stubai had moved forwards the second pair of points increasing the grip and balance efficiency of the front-on technique. The Makaly, designed by Walter Cecchinel, was the most famous crampon at the time.
Other important innovations to note in recent history are the following: the mono-point (Charlet and Grivel in 1986), the anti-balling up plate (J.Frechyn 1979) and the back spur for the new technique of heel anchorage.
In 2000 DMM introduces the Terminator, the first viable anatomically curved rigid crampon.
Today crampons are not all purpose objects used in every situation but there are specific types for different situations and disciplines; this is especially true for ice-falls.
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