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The introduction of lighter mountain boots and new types of crampons and bindings has brought to a head the difficulty many people have when choosing the correct combination of boots and crampons. It is vitally important that you select the correct crampon for the boots you are going to use on snow and ice.
Otherwise, they will fail to work together safely and effectively. Keep in mind that using the wrong type of crampon on a certain type of boot can have very serious consequences such as crampon loss or breakage.
The following grading system, designed by mountaineer and guide Brian Hall, has become established as the simplest and most effective guide to choosing the right boot and crampon combination.
It should be stressed that this is a guide and should be used only as a supplement for good advice from specialist mountaineering retailer, experienced mountaineers or mountain guides.
BOOTS
B0
Flexible three season walking boots (generally made with soft leather or fabric uppers) intended for summer or light year round hill walking with the emphasis on comfort.
Since these boots can be easily bent to an angle of 45 degrees or more, they are not advisable for use with crampons as the boot does not provide a sufficiently stable platform, leading to the danger of the crampon detaching in use.
B1
Four seasons hill walking boots with semi-stiff midsoles and a supportive and durable upper.
This allows the limited use of crampons for walking on short sections of easy snow and ice.
Suitable for use with C1 crampons.
They are also suitable for emergency and occasional use when crossing a short patch of snow or ice, rather than setting out initially fitted for a full days walk.
B2
Stiff four season mountaineering boots with a supportive upper made from high quality leather. They usually have facility for heel clip bindings to be fitted.
Suitable for mountain walking, glaciers, easy alpine terrain and low grade Scottish winter climbs.
These boots can be typically used with C1 or C2 crampons.
B3
Fully rigid midsoled technical mountaineering and ice-climbing boots. The sole has the facility to allow fitting crampons with heel clips and wire toe bails.
Suitable for use with all the types of crampons.
CRAMPONS
C1
Hinged flexible walking crampon which normally has 10 or 12 points. Two may be front pointing.
Generally designed with a metal forefoot and heel piece with a central bar that allows flex and adjustment of length.
Attached onto the boot with straps or a flexible "plastic" toe and heel cradle system.
This type is light and simple, and is best for occasional use.
C2
Articulated mountaineering and mid grade snow and ice climbing crampon. Commonly features 12 points including front points.
Normally designed with a metal forefoot and heel piece and a central adjustment bar.
Attached with straps or heel and toe plastic cradle system or more recently toe strap / plastic cradle and clip-on heel.
C3
Technical climbing crampons which can be articulated or fully rigid technical crampon attached by full clip-on system of toe bar and heel clip.
Front points are often vertically aligned and made out of forged steel to allow for better penetration in hard ice.
The ability to modify front points to a mono-point configuration is common.
Please not that boots are usually graded for a size 42. Smaller boots are relatively stiffer and larger sizes more flexible due to the greater leverage and typically greater weight of the user. Boots also become more flexible with age.
It is essential that your crampon flexes more than the sole of your boot. If it is the other way round, with your boot flexing more than the crampon, there is a very real danger of crampon breakage occurring.
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